Ostensibly,
this is Drasdo's autobiography - an
account of his ordinary route through
life - but apparently, it refused
to sit easily even in that most flexible
of genres, for 'the book would have
nothing to do with it'. Instead (and
more like a novelist describing his
art), Drasdo tell us that he was surprised
by 'the shape of the book', and by
silences': he was troubled by 'insistent
voices' and had no choice other than
to 'copy out what they said'.
So
what is the shape of the book? It
is divided into four sections which
contain twenty-two essays - several
of which have appeared in 'earlier
drafts' in journals and magazines.
Somewhat surprisingly however, he
includes none of his highly-praised
writing for the CC Journal: and his
seminal paper on the philosophy and
aesthetics of mountain education,
Education & the Mountain Centres
(which is almost impossible to find
now), appears only as an assimilated
echo. There is neither index, nor
bibliography and there are no footnotes
or photographs. So, had Drasdo deliberately
set himself at a huge distance from
the traditional autobiography and
given himself a handicap to start
with? And if so, why?
Well,
to start with, this is not a book
which places its author's experience
sequentially from playground swing
to climbing sling. Nor does it offer
us the author delving self- consciously
into his own psyche or those of his
friends and relations, seeking for
causal explanations of why he chose
to climb (if there are several apocryphal
Peter Greenwood stories for example,
no attempt is made to examine him
under the microscope: and the most
personal and in some ways, most moving
of revelations about Drasdo's relationship
with his parents closes the book rather
than opens it). Yet, despite discounting
these obvious parameters of the genre,
The Ordinary Route is one of the most
quietly - challenging and profound
of autobiographies ever written by
a British climber.
Drasdo
claims he is a very ordinary author:
'an alternative historian, a village
philosopher, a man who's kept his
head above water more by luck than
judgement', 'village', 'luck' - are
characteristic of his style, definitive
of his intention and the source of
much of the wry, often self-deprecating
humour in the book. There is no big
parade here of the big-tick routes
or big-tick partnerships: and the
very coat hooks upon which a standard
climbing autobiography would normally
be hung - 'My highest mountain, my
nearest miss, my most agonising decision
...(my most) deeply satisfying alpine
ascents' - have 'resisted inclusion'.
Why leave out these obvious mountaineering
touchstones? Well, Drasdo's intention
is gradually revealed as much more
ambitious and analytic: it is to subject
his own climbing experience itself
to scrutiny and thus find 'the unacknowledged
value in what we take as commonplace'.
The change of pronoun to 'we', here,
is telling: he seeks to generalise
from his own experience and offer
us all, 'the ordinary as rich and
strange'. The Shakespearean metaphor
from The Tempest is also deliberate:
he wants to transform his ordinary
experience using 'imagination and
reading' and a 'long time-span of
engagement with a variety of terrains
and conditions'. This is the considered
agenda of a man who has spent 50 years
thinking through his climbing by writing
about it.
Drasdo
is much more than a good descriptive
writer, though: he is a shrewd political
commentator: a practised defender
of the public right to roam (c.f.
the essay, 'Access': 'What we wanted
... the freedom to walk anywhere on
uncultivated land') and a well-read
and active conservationist (c.f. the
major 18 page essay entitled 'Conservation').
He's also much more than a 'village'
philosopher in these pages (perhaps
with the possible exception of Phil
Bartlett, he is the only British climbing
writer with the credentials to be
a philosopher of climbing), scrutinising
many of the most contentious issues
that currently beset modern climbing
with rigour and relish. It is worth
reading The Ordinary Route for these
reasons alone.
He
is particularly good, for instance,
at teasing out all the inconsistent
and counter cases in an argument and
he can take a subject that is potentially
rather dry - such as guidebooks and,
because it is dear to his he(art)
as a writer and climber, show its
essential characteristics and significance
with wit and clarity of thought. What
is written in guides, he tells us,
conditions our responses to cliffs
and climbs and therefore to ourselves
as writers and climbers. As we learn
the relief and detail of a crag, for
instance, we quite literally 'harness
it with words'. The history of our
sport is thus very much the history
of climbing language itself. Drasdo
loves reading maps - as you would
expect - devoting a chapter to 'On
Getting Lost', in which language itself
is the map whereby we find both where
and who we are in relation to the
mountain map. 'We could find no object
to which we could attach a few words
to say where we'd lain down'.
Though
the autobiographical details pop up
unchronologically throughout the book,
Drasdo's more personal 'attempt to
make sense' of his own experience
begins on page 63 - the last page
of an essay entitled 'An End'. This
essay, marking the death of Drasdo's
contemporary, Arthur Dolphin, when
Drasdo was himself in Courmayer, stands
as a marker. Before it, in the first
five essays, are many of the details
of early life and climbing in Yorkshire
and The Lakes. Packed with vignettes
of those men and women who made up
The Yorkshire Climbers (Mountaineering
Club) and The Bradford Lads - those
days when climbing was 'an oral culture'
- memories of National Service in
Greece and of hitch- hiking, they
compliment chapters in Dennis Gray's
Rope Boy and Don Whillans's Portrait
of a Mountaineer, if you want a comprehensive
social picture of the time.
But
it is the transformatory power of
language upon experience which excites
him most. Each essay contains an 'epiphany'
(definition: 'a moment of manifestation
of supernatural reality'): but there
is nothing of the supernatural in
his recollected experience. His observations
are very much rooted in our reality
- the mountain reality of closely-observing
climbers, everywhere: and with Eliot,
he knows that ' The business of the
poet is not to seek for... new emotions
to express, but to use the ordinary
ones...'.
A
good example of this, and of his distinctive
style, is to be found in the extract
from the essay 'On Unplanned Bivouacs',
published in this edition of the CC
Journal. An apparently commonplace
story of death in the mountains, it
opens with a deliberate leak of the
narrative tension before modulation,
via a focused revelation about the
power of nature (the epiphany) into
a profound generalisation about (our)
experience of a bivouac. Here, in
Eliot's words again, is 'neither emotion,
nor recollection' but a 'fusion' of
both. We can see, too, how a photograph
would not help him - here or elsewhere:
the pictorial qualities of this and
other pieces would be diminished by
the singularity of an image. For the
power of that 'ordinary' dawn to provide
a lasting effect on both writer and
reader, the imagery must be preserved
by words alone.
Drasdo
saves his best work for his most treasured
experiences - which clearly still
continue to exercise his imagination
and memory. The essays at the heart
of the book are akin to sustained
meditations in their measured an studied
intensity. Always with some rock at
their heart, they are refined recollections
which unite dream-time with the reality
of intense experience. Here, where
we get as close to the ideal forms
as Plato will allow him to, the act
of climbing loses the foreground,
giving way to a deeper engagement
with mountains, to a sort of spiritual
search for the reverberating heart
of things. Drasdo writes of these
places as he apprehended them and
as they are now, in memory: thus he
offers us 'the real remembered thing'.
So, an 'ordinary' walk up Gebel Musa
(reputedly, the Mount Sinai of Biblical
fame) leads him to the 'miraculous
sanctuary of Elijah's hollow', the
discovery of a 'climber's paradise
as perfect as any I've seen': but
also the realisation that to 'work
out routes, here, over the pilgrims'
heads, would be an act of the grossesst
insensitivity'. Another of his 'most
memorable days', on Bon Echo Rock
in Canada, ends with a discovery of
'sermons in stones' (Algonquin Indian
pictographs) which counterpoints the
later near destruction of his canoe
by a falling rock and a night paddle
home that might have been fatal. He
writes then of several visits (pilgrimages?)
over the years, to The Poisoned Glen
in Ireland, where climbs on Bearnas
Buttress, in 'the hills... robed in
mystery', lead to 'dreams... in a
west impossibly displaced, (where)
there was another area we hadn't yet
looked at. And beyond that...'. He
concludes, close to home, on Arenig
Fawr, where his is still seeking experiences
in and out of the ordinary.
The
Ordinary Route is a demanding read
at times. Some of the trains of thought
Drasdo follows, lead him into empty
stations: and there are moments when
one wanted more of the active, personal
voice. But his seriousness of ambition,
intent and skill in writing mark this
out as one of the most inspiring books
of recent times.
If
Ken Wilson is right, and we are at
a crossroads in our sport, let's learn
to trust the 'difficult' writer or
visionary artist to help us apprehend
'The Seen Climb, the Known Climb,
the Dram Climb', and find new meanings
in climbing: for as Drasdo points
out, 'Climbing is substantially an
activity of the imagination'. Not
'fashion' or 'fancy', note, but 'imagination'
- the precursor to adventure. Long
may it be celebrated as such by such
adventurous writers and by such visionary
publishers as The Ernest Press.