A Record of Mountaineering, Geographical Exploration, Medical Research and Mapping

This is the first comprehensive Monograph to tell the Everest story as it has evolved over the centuries. Central to this history was the First Ascent in 1953.

Michael Ward (dec. 2005) a surgeon and mountaineer, was directly involved in the pivotal events that led to success. In late 1950, while serving as a Medical Officer attached to the Brigade of Guards, he searched the neglected and uncatalogued archives of the Royal Geographical Society and discovered the forgotten Milne-Hinks map, as well as a series of hitherto unknown photos taken on covert flights over Everest in the late 1940s. Together these provided clear evidence of a feasible route from the south. From early 1951 onwards scientists from the Royal Society and Medical Research Council initiated and conducted definitive research into the problems of extreme altitude which provided the key to the successful first ascent.

Everest has now been climbed over a thousand times by many different routes but it was only in 1978, 25 years after the first ascent, that the mountain was first climbed without the use of supplementary oxygen. This Monograph includes a number of maps specially produced at the Royal Geographical Society to illustrate exploratory journeys in the Everest region from the Middle Ages to the present day. It sheds new light on a complex story, leading to the 1953 breakthrough which accelerated the exploration and ascent of the world¹s highest peaks.

The First Ascent also led to the the emergence of a thriving medical speciality, High Altitude Medicine and Physiology, which helps the 150 million people who live at altitude, as well as the millions who travel, ski and climb at altitude each year. In human terms, this is the main legacy of Everest.

Michael Ward was a member and Medical Officer of both the 1951 and 1953 Everest expeditions. From 1951 he climbed, explored, mapped and carried out medical research in the great ranges of the Himalaya, in Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan and the Pamir. Holder of the Founder's Gold Medal of the RGS, he was given unique access over the past ten years to rarely available information, to complete this 'Biography' of the world's highest peak.

Jacket illustrations: Front ­ The north side of Everest: Painting by T Howard Somervell, FRCS. Back ­ Pundit map of the Mount Everest region, 1875.

A quality hard-back with maps printed on both end-papers; 245 x 170 mm; 350 pp of text; coloured frontispiece; 25 b & w illus. on art paper; 45 maps & diagrams; 15 pencil sketches.